The Best of Both Seasons

The coming week is the swing shift between summer and fall, with a foot in each season. Why not cook the best of both?

In many places, the harvest is just peaking. It’s decidedly not too late to cook summery things like lobster rolls; Melissa Clark’s new recipe for roasted zucchini with garlicky bread crumbs and mozzarella; and salads of corn and shishito peppers, or tomato and watermelon.

My favorite way with eggplant is the Italian preparation called alla Norma, roasted, then cooked down with tomatoes and basil into a delicious sludge. Colu Henry’s new recipe, pasta alla Norma sorta (above), is, like all her recipes, a smart shortcut to explosive flavor.

One of our most popular seasonal pastas is this easy mix of zucchini, fusilli, and lots and lots of lemon and herbs. (That said, for a seasonless lemony pasta, I love the spaghetti al limone served at Frank restaurant in the East Village. Here’s a video recipe, featuring the opinionated and Instagram-famous chef, Frank Prisinzano.)

For dessert, please note that we had a bumper crop of ice cream cakes this summer, and with this week’s orange Creamsicle version, we have everyone covered: mint-chocolate-chip lovers, peanut butter pretzel people, even old-school spumoni fanatics. You could freeze one of those today and eat it all week.

For a fall preview on a cool evening, make oyakodon, a soothing bowl of rice, chicken and egg in a broth fragrant with Japanese aromatics. Step away from the ground beef you grilled as burgers all summer and braise lamb meatballs seasoned with cumin and cinnamon instead. Use the last of the corn for Sarah Jampel’s soup, rich with coconut and spiked with alluring garnishes: torn cilantro leaves, toasted coconut flakes, chopped roasted peanuts, crispy fried shallots, lime wedges and serrano chiles.

Thousands more recipes for the week are waiting for you on NYT Cooking. If you’re not yet a subscriber, you won’t be able to access them, save them, share them, annotate them, rate them and use them again and again and again. So why not take the site for a spin?

In the meantime, please write us directly if you run into trouble: [email protected] We will get back to you.

And visit us for free whenever you like, on Instagram and Twitter, Facebook and YouTube. Over on the New York Times Op-Docs channel, I love this new video about the British entrepreneur Haddon Salt, a.k.a. “The King of Fish and Chips,” who built — and then lost — an American fast-food empire in the 1960s. Perhaps it will put you in the mood to make some. See you tomorrow!

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